Recalibrating our inner compass at Euphoria Retreat in Greece

Sharon Walker reviews the Odysseus Journey on the Greek Peloponnese and discovers a lesson in ancient history, how to use the five elements and a sublime four-storey spa

It is 11am on a Friday morning in early December and rather than being hunched over a desk tapping away at my laptop as I race towards the next deadline or frantically stuffing the washing machine with next bundle of laundry, I am sitting on a futon-type cushion in an airy, room, gazing out towards misty peaks of the Parnassus mountains, deep in the Peloponnese peninsula, on the southern tip of Greece.

A spa holiday away from the daily treadmill is always good to contemplate life, but I am here for a more structured kind of navel-gazing, to embark on the Odysseus Journey, transformational workshop, at the holistic Euphoria Retreat. My room is simple, and on the comfortable side of minimalist, with clean lines, crisp bedding, light wood floors, neutral walls, and the odd dash of colour and pattern.

I am among an international bunch of men and women, mostly approaching midlife, including an artist and an opera singer. Over the course of the next three days we will explore Homer’s epic tale, The ODYSSEY, guided by the spa’s inspiring owner Marina Efraimoglou, a former banker whose own spiritual awakening came in the wake of a cancer diagnosis, and elegant former dance teacher and healer, Mary Vandorou. The idea is we will learn something of our own lives by accompanying the Greek hero Odysseus (Ulysses) on his epic journey.

“It’s no hardship that all this takes place in the stunning surrounds of the Euphoria Retreat, whose four-storey spa building is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown, carved into the side of a mountain, next to a Cypress grove”

“Like Odysseus, we all have a journey on earth, strewn with difficulties and temptations and different parts of the journey will resonate with different people,” says Mary, sitting cross-legged at the front of the class.  “Odysseus was the captain of his ship but that didn’t stop him getting distracted.”

Odysseus’s ‘distractions’ were next level. Despite being one hell of a sailor, he still spent an entire decade making his way home to Ithaca after the fall of Troy, running into trouble with various Gods, and getting waylaid by immortal nymphs, hedonistic Lotus Eaters and other temptations. Despite all this, he remained focused on his goal, to get home to his beloved wife Penelope.

“Different moments will chime with different people,” says Marina. In the process of exploring the story we reflect on how our decisions might be limiting us and whether we are ready for change. Had I wasted years of my life in lotus-eating paradise? Did my ego get in the way of progress?  Mmmm, maybe sometimes. Fortunately the Ancient Greeks are a forgiving bunch and there’s no need for a hair shirt here. “According to Homer there is no right or wrong, it’s not a mistake, it’s an experience. It is more important to keep moving,” explains Marina.

The idea is that we use the time to reflect on our life decisions and leave with a renewed sense of purpose, inner-compass firmly recalibrated. Perhaps, like Odysseus, I could draw on my inner grit to achieve my goals, despite all the obstacles.

The Odyssey talk sessions are accompanied by more physical spa experiences, designed to dislodge any “inhibiting emotions” by balancing the Five Elements: water, wood, metal, fire, earth, which are cornerstones of both Ancient Greek and Chinese philosophy.

We access our dreamy inner child in the dark womb-like Sphere pool, plunging into the four-metre depths to be serenaded by dolphins and whales, emerging into the ethereal flickering lights. “Water is the child in us, it is about instinct,” explains Marina.  Next, it’s time for a purposeful walk in the private forest behind the spa. Wood can help with decisions apparently. Earth sees us smearing clay on each other in a deeply-nurturing ritual, in the spa’s magical Byzantine hammam.

It’s no hardship that all this takes place in the stunning surrounds of the Euphoria Retreat, whose four-storey spa building is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown, carved into the side of a mountain, next to a Cypress grove. Atmospheric lighting evokes an ecclesiastical mood, complemented by Byzantine arches and golden and charcoal walls in the spa’s church-like entrance. From here you climb the spiral Rapunzel staircase, modelled on an Italian water tower, that connects the four floors of the spa and gaze down at the silvery moon shimmering in an imaginatively-designed Kneipp pool, at the base if the tower.

Between workshop sessions, which take place twice daily, there’s a chance to sample other aspects of the spa. I dip into the daily exercise programme, with the full-body toning and yogalates (a mix of yoga and Pilates). Each morning the guided walks take me variously on to mountain paths behind the spa, to see an ancient church embedded in the rock, or through honey-coloured streets of 13th-century Mystras, a UNESCO World Heritage site, just beyond the spa gates. It is rather nice to be surrounded by life, rather than holed up in some isolated spot.

The spa’s Mediterranean food is another highlight. Euphoria is not the kind of spa to feed you dried bread crusts, or carrot sticks for a week. Indeed, the smart Gaia restaurant serves a delicious mix of flavourful Greek and Mediterranean dishes, with an emphasis on balance and taste, rather than deprivation.

A month after my return I can say that the Odysseus Journey inspired me to think about my values and to consider how I was measuring up. Now the decisions I make, especially regarding work, are prefixed with the question: ‘Why am I doing this?’ When that doesn’t provide answers, I have the elements up my sleeve. If I’m fraught, I swim. If I have a decision, I may head out to Hampstead Heath for a spot of contemplation. In all, I am living my life with a little more awareness.