Experiencing futuristic wellness at Sangha in China
Jo Fernández reviews a transformative, holistic lakeside retreat on the outskirts of Suzhou in the Yangtze Basin and finds an impressive team of health experts, delicious food and dreamy architecture
Looking forward to a break from everyday life, I felt relaxed from the minute I stepped out of the taxi at Sangha, despite a 13-hour flight from the UK, spent eating, drinking and watching a very unmindful violent new release. The pared back and attractive design was incredibly soothing, and the staff gently shepherded me to where I needed to go. This was something they continued to do throughout my stay, so I could focus on each activity in my schedule rather than trying to find my way around the 46-acre retreat – it felt very nurturing.
The first sanctuary I found was my bedroom, which I loved, full as it was of low-key, well-thought-out luxury, from natural wood furniture and flooring to motion-activated lights for minimal disruption during the night. I had a crystal mandala under my bed, a salt lamp for ‘good vibrations’, and a feng shui curved ceiling for a positive energy flow. There was also a deep soaking tub in my glass-walled bathroom, a high-tech toilet with an array of buttons, including one to shower upwards and an ipad, which I didn't use.
I was here for five days of healthy living and mindful lifestyle, hoping my stressy stomach issues would be left behind in China. I regularly work out and rarely eat junk or processed food, so felt in pretty good shape, but I wanted to see how healthy I really was and get into better habits. After an initial wellness evaluation, a programme of treatments, classes, healthy eating and spa time was set out for me by a team of wellness experts, doctors, mindful practitioners and the resident chef.
“The name Sangha is borrowed from the Sanskrit word for community, and that’s really what the team, the architects, and even the guests have created here so successfully. It’s a beautiful wellness community for our times, and I left feeling calmer”
Each of my days began with a delicious breakfast overlooking Yangcheng Lake, which was topped with pretty lily pads, and the outdoor, white-rimmed swimming pool that curved in tune with the lake. Every meal was a real delight, with bowls of delicate congee (an Asian rice porridge) and plenty of fresh fruit. The colours, textures and wide variety of sugar-free and dairy-free dishes showed me you don’t need to eat large portions to feel satisfied.
I would then head to the At One Clinic, which was a pleasure to spend time in just for the interior design alone - a standard all-white clinical look replaced by light-filled waiting areas decked out with stylish mid-century-modern-style chairs and warm wooden shelves. Here, a team of professionals took care of me, weighing me and, over the course of my five days, treating me with all sorts of things from cupping, which helped relieve the stress in my back tissue, to acupuncture, which truly becalmed me.
Then I would go to At One Spa, for deep pressure massages and relaxation, lying on LED-lit relaxation beds, soaking in bubbling spa pools and sitting in hanging pods. Entering a spa has never felt so ceremonial, as a member of staff banged a brass gong signalling my journey into the 12-step hydrothermal circuit via an underground ‘transformational tunnel.’ Sitting sweating in the large Himalayan salt cave was like being encased in a warm pink-hued shell - living walls thick with lush plants and shafts of daylight from skylights added my feeling of ease.
hat I loved about Sangha was the chance to try such a variety of different sessions and treatments. I’m not a natural morning person, yet an early morning guided breathwork session lying down in the domed, quartz crystal-lined meditation cave had quite a dramatic effect on me. As my breathing became more rhythmic, I felt deep vibrations throughout my body. Afterwards, I felt wider awake than usual, while others felt more emotional.
One evening session of sound healing was less successful for me. Whilst some of my fellow guests drifted into a sleep so deep they began snoring, I confess I lay there stiffly under my soft blanket, willing it to end. Others loved it, slowly arising from a sleep-like state and taking their time to leave after, while I scurried to my room, relieved to be back in my sanctuary.
My fellow guests included a mix of men and women from all over the world, mainly professionals, ranging from a mother and daughter looking for a healthy bonding experience, to a middle-aged writer looking to get fitter, to a travel agent just wanting to feel less stressed.
Between classes and treatments, I loved wandering around the grounds, nosing at the residential villas (imagining owning one) and marvelling at the way every space flowed together, helped by the recycled brick, stone, tiles and other materials. I also discovered the community vegetable garden, a lovely, down-to-earth, everyday feature to find in such a design-led retreat.
The weekend I was there a wellness festival filled the public spaces, with TED-style talks on health and wellness, performances, outside yoga and Chinese cultural elements. I loved an al-fresco yoga class taught by a buff young surf-dude type, and a session with a Chinese calligraphy artist. They asked about my life and what was important to me and used my answers to liven up the large scroll of white paper I’d chosen with beautiful black brushstrokes representing being a mother, a woman and hope. It’s a work of art I’ll keep forever.
I spent my evenings swimming in the indoor pool or socialising with guests in the Thought for Food restaurant, where we ate all our meals. Suppers were as delicious as breakfasts. I don’t eat much meat, but the richly flavoured, slow-cooked beef ribs, accompanied by cauliflower and spinach purée and a spicy pepper sauce at dinner one night made me eat them more thoughtfully. Puddings included a nut-based carrot cake, the ingredients layered carefully in a tiny tower.
The name Sangha is borrowed from the Sanskrit word for community, and that’s really what the team, the architects, and even the guests have created here so successfully. It’s a beautiful wellness community for our times, and I left feeling calmer, clearer headed and armed with the knowledge that, while ethically I disagree with eating meat, physiologically it suits me far better than the lentils I'd tried to replace it with.