Envisioning a life well-lived on a Danena Ortigia private wellbeing retreat in Sicily

Harriet Poland reviews a gentle yoga and ayurveda retreat with her mother in the beautiful town of Ortigia, where the stylish setting and relaxed hosting offer a captivating glimpse of what life could be like

There’s a moment, two days into my time in Renata’s beautiful home, where I think, this is so much more than just a retreat to me. It’s a vision of what your life could look like, if you had the freedom to choose it. 

Our arrival felt like the start of a welcome adventure, with Renata greeting us warmly in person from our taxi. We were in the historic heart of Syracuse, where my mother and I had already spotted ancient ruins and bustling markets we wanted to visit. 

From the first step inside, the space felt different; curated like the home of your most tasteful friend, full of beautiful paintings and design details. My mother is a painter, so it was a perfect setting for her to sketch out plans for paintings and think about her next creative direction. This was going to be a chance for us both to nurse our systems back into full-working order under the sun, with gentle movement, treatments and good food.  

Our rooms were comfortable, peaceful and stylishly furnished, with my main suite with a sea-view the standout. My bed looked right onto the water, and with the window open I could rest to the sound of the waves. My mother’s room was gorgeous too, with a big poster bed and interesting features. It was also full of art books, which she got stuck into, finding inspiration for her work.  

Through a connecting door, the communal space offers calm and stylish surroundings. Stairs wind up to a small dining space and a large terrace right on the sea. It is the perfect place to relax, with comfortable seats and deckchairs, and shade when you need it. We spent an entire afternoon dozing on the terrace and reading. The terrace was all terracotta, giving it a distinctly Mediterranean feel, with sculptures and large potted plants. There were two places to eat, in and out of the sun, along with deck chairs to lounge on. 

Over herbal tea Renata explained what our retreat would look like. Instead of a rigorous wellness schedule, there’s a simple framework you can expand upon, with nourishing food, yoga, treatments and optional activities. The only fixed plan is a yoga class in the morning, and a brunch - the rest of the day is yours to live as you want. 

“Each of Renata’s choices throughout our week were so thoughtful - they created a foundation that gently nudged us towards relaxation and pleasure, with no sense of pressure”

The yoga each morning was in the cool, stone-floored living space, just two of us and the brilliant teacher, Andrea. The intimacy meant she was able to direct the class to our needs – though in this case that still wasn’t easy, as yoga is absolutely central to my life, whereas my mother has only done a few classes with me over the years, very reluctantly. 

The classes were Hatha style, and Andrea gave modifications to suit our different needs. She was totally hands-on, making adjustments that stretched and developed my own practice and helped my mother find her way. I’ve fervently wanted my mother to find a practice she enjoys, and with Andrea she did. It was very special to share a yoga practice with her, to both find a moment of calm together, and we’ve made plans for Andrea to continue to teach us over video.

Following yoga, Renata’s cook, Rachel, prepared an ayurvedic and absolutely delicious brunch packed with nutrition and also reflecting the flavour and spirit of Sicilian cooking.  Each day featured a range of thoughtful dishes, from fruit and juices to a main meal, assembled with care. Standouts were the homemade pesto, and an incredible fresh fish dish with fennel.   

We spent most afternoons wandering the historic centre of Ortigia, falling in love with the place with each winding corner and every sight of plants toppling over a wrought iron balcony. The small ancient town was one of the first settlements on the island, and flourished through different cultural influences, including Greek, Roman and Byzantine. It’s connected to Syracuse via a bridge, so you feel tapped in but in your own world, and is packed with artisan shops, churches and all the eateries you could want. 

The joy is in heading out without a plan and seeing what you come to. We were there in April, so avoided touristy crowds. My mother took photos of the beautiful settings to turn into paintings, and we both indulged in a little retail therapy, shopping for earrings, bags and gifts. The temple of Apollo is worth a visit – one of the largest sites on the island, and substantial enough to give a sense of the shape of the original city, while the main market is full of bustle and delicious spices and snacks (we loved the fried artichokes).

A core part of the retreat is a selection of ayurveda treatments, which are offered after a consultation. We both had Ayurvedic massages with homemade oils - one of the best we’ve both had - with a masseuse who was clearly highly experienced and able to adapt to each of our needs. I was particularly tense after a stressful few weeks of work, so she focused on deep tissue work, while my mother had a gentler treatment.  

Each of Renata’s choices throughout our week were so thoughtful, they created a foundation that gently nudged us towards relaxation and pleasure, with no sense of pressure. As we padded around the apartment each morning after brunch, drinking tea and talking through our plans on the terrace, I felt calm but energised too. Totally unrestricted, completely relaxed in the space, and able to let my mind wander with no sense of the ‘next thing’. 

It was a particularly inspiring and intimate place for us as mother and daughter to relax together, when our lives had become so busy of late and less entwined than they used to be. We talked freely about so many things – worries, family, the way we thought about life - and this offered as much of a boost to our wellbeing as the yoga and massage. Sharing a space like this with someone you’re so close to can help bring you back to yourself, and in many ways this was the secret treatment of Renata’s offering for us.

I’ve loved the retreats I’ve been on; they’ve uplifted me, inspired me and changed me. But I wouldn’t want to live on one. By the end of my five days at Danena Ortigia, I wanted to pack up my life in London and start learning Italian.